Safety and Preparedness

The Park City Fire District asks, are you safe in your home?

  • Install smoke alarms on every level of your home
  • Install a carbon monoxide alarm in a central location of your home.
  • Test alarms monthly.
  • Replace alarm batteries every six months.
  • Develop a plan for emergencies, before they happen.
  • Always have two escape routes, and
  • Make sure you have a plan for your pets!

Home emergency preparedness and exit drills can save your life, and the lives of your family!

Family Emergency Preparedness Guide

SummitCoGuide200Disaster can strike quickly and without warning. It can force you to evacuate your neighborhood or confine you to your home. What would you do if basic services – water, gas, electricity or telephones – were cut off? Local officials and relief workers will be on the scene after a disaster, but they cannot reach everyone right away. Families can – and do – cope with disaster by preparing in advance and working together as a team. Follow the steps listed in this brochure to create your family’s disaster plan. Knowing what to do is your best protection and your responsibility.
Where will your family be when disaster strikes? They could be anywhere – at work, at school or in the car.
How will you find each other? Will you know if your children are safe?
Click here for the Family Emergency Preparedness Guide

Wildfires Information

Wildfire information for Park City and Summit County, Utah

Change Your Clock – Change Your Battery

Change your clock - change your detector batteryThe Park City Fire District participates in the Change Your Clock – Change Your Battery program. Every spring and fall we encourage all homeowners to change the batteries in their smoke detectors when they change their clocks for daylight savings.

Smoke Detectors

A smoke detector must be installed in every dwelling unit of a triplex, apartment complex, hotel or motel, stock co-operative, and timeshare project.

This also includes single-family dwellings and factory-built housing if:

  1. It was sold after January 1, 1986.
  2. Approved improvements were made after January 1, 1985, which exceed $1,000.

Used manufactured homes, used mobile homes, and used commercial coaches that were sold after January 1, 1986, also must have an operable smoke detector installed on the date of transfer of title.

Why do we need smoke detectors?

Smoke detectors can save your life—and your family. Most fatal home fires occur at night, while people sleep. Fire produces toxic gases and smoke that actually numb the senses. If you’re asleep, or become disoriented by toxic gases, you may not even realize that there is a fire. You can’t rely on your own senses to detect a fire.

Is there proof that smoke detectors save lives?

Yes. Almost every day, news reports across the country tell of cases where smoke detectors have saved lives. In several instances, the detectors weren’t even installed, yet alerted families to fire. Fire officials continually cite smoke detectors as lifesavers in home fires.

Ionization and Photoelectric

What about the conflicting claims concerning the two types of smoke detectors—Ionization and Photoelectric? Which smoke detector is better?

Both types are approved by the California State Fire Marshal and by nationally recognized testing laboratories. Ionization models respond slightly faster to open flaming fires while photoelectric models respond faster to smoldering fires. Ideally a home should be protected by at least one of each. If you can afford just one detector, a photoelectric is recommended.

Photoelectric smoke detectors use either an incandescent light bulb or a light-emitting diode (LED) to send forth a beam of light. When smoke enters the detector, light from the beam is reflected from the smoke particles into a photocell sensor and the alarm is triggered.

The ionization chamber smoke detector has a small radiation source that produces radioactive material, electrically charged air molecules, called ions. These ions cause a small electric current to flow in the chamber. Smoke particles entering the chamber attach themselves to the ions, reducing the electrical flow. The change in current sets off the alarm (horn).

Do I need a heat detector too?

Heat detectors are no substitute for smoke detectors. They set off an alarm in response to heat only. They do add protection and can be helpful in basements, kitchens, attics and garages. For life safety, be sure your home is protected by a smoke detector.

Types of Installations
Hardwire Operated
Hardwiring supplies power to the detector from the building’s main electrical source and requires electrical expertise to install.
Battery Operated
Battery powered detectors come with instructions for easy mounting. In about a year the detector will begin to emit “beeps” every minute or so, and will keep this up for a week or longer. This tells the owner that the battery has begun to fall below the safe minimum of power and should be replaced.
Location of Installation

Detectors should be placed on ceiling or on the wall 6 to 12 inches from the ceiling.

Homes with one sleeping area:
Detector should be place centrally located between the beds.
Homes with more than one sleeping area:
Detectors should be located in each sleeping area.
Multi-story homes:
Detectors should be located on each story of the family living area.
Basement level smoke detector should be installed in or near basement, not at the top of the stairs.
To avoid nuisance alarms place detectors:
Away from furnace or air conditioner vents.
Away from bathroom to avoid steam.
Away from cooking area and fireplace.
If a nuisance alarm persists:
Move detector a few inches in either direction.
Switch type of detector – i.e., Ionization to Photoelectric.
Contact your local fire department.
Where not to place detectors:
Detectors should not be placed within 6 inches of where walls and ceilings meet, or near heating and cooling ducts. A detector placed in these areas may not receive the flow of smoke required to activate.

It is extremely important to regularly test and clean all detectors.

  • Replace the batteries in battery-operated units once a year or in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations.
  • Teach everyone in your house to leave working batteries in smoke detectors and not to use them elsewhere.
  • They should not be painted.
  • To test and clean a detector, follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
  • Cobwebs and dust can impair a detector’s sensitivity; most units should be vacuumed at least once a year.
What should I do if my alarm sounds?
  • A smoke detector in working condition will usually give you at least 3 minutes to evacuate the house.
  • It is important to plan home fire drills before you experience a fire so that family members know what to do and can move quickly in the event of real fire. It is good to practice with the lights out since most fires do occur at night.
  • Plan and know the escape route as well as an alternate escape route.
  • Especially train children, since they get frightened and tend to hide.
  • DON’T try to fight the fire yourself.
  • Get out of the house as quickly as possible, without panic.
  • Plan a meeting place outside the house so you’ll know when everyone has escaped.
  • Call the fire department as soon as you are out of the house from a neighbor’s phone or from the nearest telephone…learn where it is.

Carbon Monoxide Poisoning

Carbon Monoxide or “CO”, is an odorless, colorless, tasteless, and toxic gas. Breathing too much “CO” deprives the body of oxygen and can cause physical impairment and/or death by asphyxiation.
It can’t be seen, smelled, tasted, or heard! Hundreds of people needlessly die each year from this killer.

CO Sources

Carbon monoxide is produced from the incomplete combustion of wood, fuel oil, propane, butane, gasoline, kerosene, or natural gas.

Symptoms of CO poisoning

A person exposed to carbon monoxide may exhibit flu-like symptoms: dizziness, nausea, tightness in the chest, headache, and/or fatigue. If “CO” poisoning is suspected, move the victim into fresh air if possible. Open doors and windows to improve ventilation. Call for medical assistance if the symptoms are severe or if they persist.

CO poisoning prevention

Vehicle exhaust is responsible for more than half of the unintentional CO deaths each year. Here are some other tips to help prevent accidental CO poisoning:

  • Never burn a charcoal or wood grill indoors or in a garage.
  • Never sit in a parked car with the engine running and the windows closed.
  • Never operate a car in an enclosed area such as a garage.
  • Never operate kerosene or propane heaters indoors without proper ventilation.
  • Never use the gas range or oven for home heating.
  • Never block or close a source of combustion air to a heat-producing appliance.
  • Never close the damper of a fireplace unless the fire is completely out.
  • Never operate a furnace without the fan compartment door in place.
  • Never use heat-producing appliances that are not properly installed and maintained regularly. Follow manufacturer’s recommendation for maintenance.

Earthquake Preparation

Can you go it alone for three days?

The first 72 hours after an earthquake are critical. Electricity, gas, water, and telephones may not be working. In addition, public safety services such as police and fire departments will be busy handling serious crises. You should be prepared to be self-sufficient (able to live without running water, electricity and/or gas, telephones and assistance from safety services) for at least three days following a quake. To do so, keep on hand in a central location the following:

  • Food – enough for 72 hours, preferably one week.
  • Water – Enough so each person has a gallon per day for 72 hours, and preferably one week. Store in airtight containers and replace it every six months. Keep disinfectants such as iodine tablets or chlorine bleach (8 drops per gallon) to purify water if necessary.
  • First Aid Kit – Make sure it’s well stocked, especially with bandages and disinfectants.
  • Fire Extinguisher – your fire extinguisher should be suitable for all types of fires. Teach all family members how to use it.
  • Flashlights – with extra batteries. Keep flashlights beside your bed and in several other locations. DO NOT use matches or candles after an earthquake until you are certain there are no gas leaks.
  • Portable Radio – with extra batteries. Most telephones will be out of order or limited to emergency use. The radio will be your best source of information.
  • Extra Blankets, Clothing and Money – Extra blankets and clothing may be required to keep warm.
  • Shoes – Have sturdy shoes to protect feet from broke glass and other debris.
  • Alternative Cooking Source – Store a barbecue or camping stove for outdoor camping. CAUTION: Ensure there are no gas leaks before you use any kind of fire as a cooking source, and do not use charcoal indoors.
  • Special Items – Have at least a one-week supply of medications and foods for infants and those with special needs.
  • Tools – Have an adjustable or pipe wrench to turn off gas and water, if necessary.
Before the Quake

How well you, your family, and your home survive an earthquake often depends an how well you prepare beforehand. Develop a family and neighborhood earthquake plan. The following checklist will help you get started:

  • Prepare an emergency kit of food, water, and supplies including a flashlight, a portable battery-operated radio, batteries, medicines, first aid kit, money, and clothing.
  • Know the safe spots in each room: under sturdy tables, desks, or against interior walls.
  • Know the danger spots: near windows, mirrors, hanging objects, fireplaces, and tall unsecured furniture.
  • Conduct practice drills so you and your family know the safe locations in your home.
  • Decide how and where your family will reunite if separated during a quake.
  • Choose an out-of-state friend or relative that separated family members can call after the quake to report their whereabouts and condition.
  • Learn first aid and CPR (cardiopulmonary resuscitation) from your local Red Cross chapter or other community organizations.
  • Learn how to shut off gas, water, and electricity in case the lines are damaged. (Safety note: Do not attempt to relight gas pilot. Call the utility company.)
  • Check chimneys, roofs, walls, and foundations for stability. Make sure your house is bolted to its foundation.
  • Secure water heater and major appliances, as well as tall heavy furniture, hanging plants, picture frames, and mirrors (especially those over beds).
  • Keep breakables, heavy objects, flammable or hazardous liquids (paints, pest sprays, and cleaning products) in secured cabinets or on lower shelves.
  • Organize your neighborhood to be self-sufficient after a quake.
During the Quake
  • If indoors, stay there. Get under a desk or table or stand in a corner.
  • If outdoors, get into an open area away from trees, buildings, walls, and power lines.
  • If in a high-rise building, stay away from windows and outside walls. Get under a table. Do not use elevators.
  • If driving, pull over to the side of the road and stop. Avoid overpasses and power lines. Stay inside your car until the shaking is over.
  • If in a crowded public place, do not rush for the doors. Crouch and cover your head with your hands and arms.
After the Quake
  • Prepare to be self-sufficient for at least three days.
  • Check for gas and water leaks, broken electrical wiring or sewage lines. If there is damage, turn utility off at the source. Immediately report gas leaks to your utility company. Check for downed power lines: warn others to stay away.
  • Check building for cracks and damage, including roof, chimneys, and foundation.
  • Turn on your portable radio for instructions and news reports. For your own safety, cooperate fully with public safety officials and instructions.
  • Do not use your vehicle unless there is an emergency. Keep the streets clear for emergency vehicles.
  • Be prepared for aftershocks.
  • Stay calm and lend a hand to others.
  • If you evacuate, leave a message at your home telling family members and others where you can be found.

Holiday Safety

Keep holidays fire safe with these following tips:

Christmas Trees

The most important factor is freshness, because of moisture content.

  • The larger the tree, the greater the hazard! Buy only the size you need.
  • Plastic trees should be fire-resistant and labeled as such. They will not burn easily.
  • When purchasing from a lot, check the delivery date to select from the batch.
  • Check by tapping on the ground. If excess needles shake loose, choose another.
  • Pull on some needles. They should not come out easily.
  • Check a small branch for brittleness.
  • Bend a needle: fir needles snap when fresh; pine needles bend when fresh.
  • Don’t rely on green color; it may be sprayed on.
Setting Up, Watering, Placement

To keep a tree fresh do not leave it on a wooden stand from the lot.

  • Use a stand that holds at least one gallon of water.
  • Cut off one or two inches from the trunk. Place the tree in water within four hours.
  • Clean a stand with a bleach-water mixture—one capful in a couple quarts of water. This kills microorganisms that prevent uptake of water.
  • A tree stand should hold a minimum of one gallon of water.
  • Check water level daily.
  • Locate a tree away from all sources of heat, including TV’s.
  • Use a wire to anchor to a wall or ceiling.
  • Place away from footpaths.
Lights, Candles and Metal Trees

Use only U.L. approved lights.

  • Never use candles on a tree.
  • Use outdoor lights only outdoors and indoor lights only indoors.
  • Maximum 200 midget lights per string. Maximum three sets of regular lights per string.
  • Lights should be on a 15-amp circuit. Don’t overload a circuit. Use approved power strips.
  • Inspect lights. If sockets or wiring are damaged, replace or repair. Place on fireproof surface and run for 15 minutes.
  • Do not leave lights on when unattended. Turn off when retiring, and turn down heat in the room.
  • Do not place lights on metal trees due to shock hazard.
  • Use a color wheel and put floodlights out of reach of children.
  • Fasten lights securely to branches. They should not contact needles or branches.
  • Keep light wiring away from water in tree base.
  • Don’t allow smoking around tree, or around piles of wrapping paper.

Christmas trees over three feet tall in places of assembly must be flame-proofed.

  • Must be done by a certified company using chemicals and methods approved by State Fire Marshal.
  • Tree must be tagged to indicate conformation with State Fire Marshal regulations.
  • If done on a lot, the firm must have a State Fire Marshal registration.
  • Examine tree for adequacy of coverage, including undersides of needles. Fairly heavy coverage is required to be effective.
  • Many chemicals used are water-soluble. Treated trees must be protected from weather.
  • It is not necessary to pre-treat a flocked tree, unless flocking will be very light.
  • Do not rely on do-it-yourself flame-proofing. Chemicals are impossible to apply correctly at home.
Ornaments, Trimmings and Costumes

Don’t place breakable ornaments on lower branches where children or pets might reach them. May result in cuts or swallowed parts.

  • Use flame-resistant or non-combustible trimmings.
  • Discard old lead-type tinsel. Use new type only.
  • Keep toxic plants, such as mistletoe or holly berries, away from children.
  • Use care with salts used to make colored flames in fireplaces. They can cause intestinal illness if ingested.
  • Know the Poison Control number: 1-800-456-7700.

Buy age appropriate toys.

  • Check toys for sharp edges, points and small parts that may be swallowed.
  • Teach children to use toys safely. Buy only electric toys with UL label.
  • Operate toys using fuel, such as kerosene, alcohol, or gasoline outdoors with supervision.
  • If people use candles around the house, we want them to remember that matches and lighters are not toys.
  • Please keep them out of the reach of children.
  • Check all decorations and costumes for flame-proofing, especially children’s playsuits.
  • Make sure Santa’s whiskers can’t catch fire.

Do Not Burn Trees or Gift Wrapping in Fireplace!

  • These materials burn explosively and may set fire to contents of room or chimney.
  • Use care handling wood and irons.
  • Don’t hang flammable decorations from mantel.
  • Remember that nearby flammables may be ignited by fire.
  • Make sure a fireplace is not decorative.
  • Don’t use flammable liquid to start fire in a fireplace.
  • Check that the flue is open before starting a fire.
  • Keep the flue open until the ashes are cold.
  • Remove all decorations from the area before starting.
  • Do not attach decorations to the screen.
  • Do not burn a tree or wrappings in fireplace.
  • Keep the fireplace screen in place.
  • Have chimney checked annually by a certified chimney sweep.
Cold Weather/Kitchen Safety
  • Have heaters checked annually and clean them before first use.
  • Don’t use fuel-burning heaters indoors. Kerosene, briquettes, or propane give off carbon monoxide (CO) when burning. CO can kill.
  • Maintain adequate clearance around all heaters, 36 inches from a wall or combustibles.
  • Avoid using electric space heaters in bathrooms and never touch one when you are wet.
  • Don’t leave portable heaters unattended around children.
  • Don’t leave a heater on when you’re not home. Have a chimney checked annually by a certified chimney sweep.
  • Don’t store flammables in furnace closets. Use care not to tip over portable heaters.
  • Pot handles should be turned in, so that children cannot reach them.
  • Don’t wear loose clothing or long sleeves while cooking. Put a lid on a grease fire to extinguish.
  • Remember scalding liquids can burn as severely as fire.
Disposal of Christmas Trees

Take a tree down immediately after Christmas, or as soon as needles begin to shed.

  • Last year 100,000 trees were recycled rather than taking up space in landfills. The resulting mulch is useful in conserving water in public landscaped areas.
  • Recycling program runs from December 27th to January 17th.
  • For further information in Park City call 435-615-5000.
  • In the County, call 435-615-4451.

Don’t allow smoking around tree or around piles of wrapping paper.

  • Have an extinguisher handy.
  • Dispose of wrappings immediately after gifts are unwrapped.
  • If fire starts, call 9-1-1 immediately.
  • Know the Poison Control number: 1-800-456-7700.

Bicycle Safety

Forty percent (39.6 million) of the 99 million riders in the United States are children ages 14 and under. This age group rides about 50% more than the average bicyclist and accounts for more than one-third of all bicycle-related deaths, in addition to 65% of all bicycle-related injuries. Bicycles are associated with more childhood injuries than any other consumer product except the automobile.
Head injury is the leading cause of death in bicycle crashes and is the most important determinant of bicycle-related death and permanent disability. Head injuries account for more than 60% of bicycle-related deaths and about one-third of hospital emergency room treated bicycling injuries. The most effective safety device available to reduce head injuries and fatalities from bicycle crashes is a bicycle helmet. Other protective safety equipment—including retro-reflective material, headlights and tail lights—can also help prevent or mitigate bicycle-related injuries and even deaths.

Deaths and Injuries
  • Each year approximately 250 children, ages 14 and under, are killed in bicycle-related incidents. Ninety percent of bicycle-related deaths (all ages) are the result of collisions with motor vehicles.
  • Children between the ages of 5 and 14 have a death rate more than two times the death rate of all other bicycle riders. The fatality rate rises rapidly beginning at about age 4 and is the highest among 12 to 14-year olds.
  • In 1994, almost 400,000 children, ages 14 and under, were treated in emergency rooms for bicycle-related injuries. Approximately 10% of these injuries were related to collisions with motor vehicles.
  • Children, ages 14 and under, are approximately six times more likely to be injured than children 15 years and older from bicycle-related crashes.
  • Children, ages 4 and under, are also at risk from bicycle-related deaths and injuries. In 1993, six children were killed, more than 10,000 suffered from head injuries, and more than 22,000 suffered from face injuries.
When and where deaths occur
  • Children, ages 14 and under, are more likely to die from bicycle crashes in urban areas (60%), at non-intersection locations (72%), during the months of May to September (56%) and between noon and 9:00 p.m. (62%).
  • The risk of sustaining an injury in non-daylight conditions (e.g. at dawn, dusk, or night) is 3.6 times greater for children 14 years and under than riding during the daytime.
  • For children, cycling on streets is about 3.4 times the risk of riding on unpaved surfaces and eight times riskier than riding on bike path
Who Is At Risk
  • Due to differences in risk exposure and lifestyle, the fatality rate for males is greater than that for females at all ages.
  • Children 9 years and under are at risk for bicycle-related head injuries.
Bicycle Helmet Effectiveness
  • Bicycle helmets have been shown to reduce the risk of head injury by as much as 85% and the risk of brain injury by as much as 88%.
  • Universal use of bike helmets by children, ages 4 to 15, would prevent between 135 and 155 deaths, between 39,000 and 45,000 head injuries, and between 18,000 and 55,000 scalp and face injuries annually.
  • Nationwide, only 15% of children 14 years and under use bicycle helmets. However, 85% of children who own bicycle helmets use them.
Bicycle Helmet Laws
  • To date, 13 states have enacted some form of bicycle helmet legislation, most of which cover only young riders.
  • None of the 50 states has a bicycle helmet law that applies to all riders.
Health Care Costs and Savings
  • Every $15 bike helmet saves this country $30 in direct health care costs and an additional $365 in other costs to society.
  • If 85% of all child cyclists wore bicycle helmets in one year, the lifetime medical cost savings would total between $109 million and $142 million.
Prevention Tips
  • A bicycle helmet is a necessity, not an accessory. Always wear a bicycle helmet every time you ride.
  • Wear a bicycle helmet correctly. A bicycle helmet should fit comfortably and snugly, but not too tightly. It should sit on top of your head in a level position, and should not rock forward and back or from side to side. The helmet straps must always be buckled.
  • Buy a bicycle helmet that meets or exceeds the safety standards developed by the American National Standards Institute (ANZI) Z-90.4, the Snell Memorial Foundation B-90 or the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) F1447.
  • Learn the rules of the road and obey traffic laws. Ride on the right side of the road, with traffic, not against; use appropriate hand signals; respect traffic signals; stop at all intersections, marked and unmarked; and stop and look both ways before entering a street.
  • Cycling should be restricted to sidewalks, paths, and driveways until a child is able to show how well she or he rides and observes the basic rules of the road.

For a complete listing of references cited, please visit the National SAFE KIDS Campaign, or call the Program Department at (202) 884-4993.

Firewise Landscaping Checklist

When designing and installing a firewise landscape, there are certain items that need to be considered. Download a PDF version

When designing and installing a firewise landscape, consider the following:
  • Local area fire history.
  • Site location and overall terrain.
  • Prevailing winds and seasonal weather.
  • Property contours and boundaries.
  • Native vegetation.
  • Plant characteristics and placement (duffage, water and salt retention ability, aromatic oils, fuel load per area, and size).
  • Irrigation requirements.
Zone Concept

To create a firewise landscape, remember that the primary goal is fuel reduction. To this end, initiate the zone concept. Zone 1 is closest to the structure; Zones 2-4 move progressively further away.

  • Zone 1. This well-irrigated area encircles the structure for at least 30’ on all sides, providing space for fire suppression equipment in the event of an emergency. Plantings should be limited to carefully spaced fire resistant species.
  • Zone 2. Fire resistant plant materials should be used here. Plants should be low growing, and the irrigation system should extend into this section.
  • Zone 3. Place low-growing plants and well-spaced trees in this area, remembering to keep the volume of vegetation (fuel) low.
  • Zone 4. This furthest zone from the structure is a natural area. Thin selectively here, and remove highly flammable vegetation.

Also remember to:

  • Be sure to leave a minimum of 30’ around the house to accommodate fire equipment, if necessary.
  • Carefully space the trees you plant.
  • Take out the “ladder fuels” — vegetation that serves as a link between grass and tree tops. It can carry fire to a structure or from a structure to vegetation.
  • Give yourself added protection with “fuel breaks” like driveways, gravel walkways, and lawns.
When maintaining a landscape
  • Keep trees and shrubs pruned. Prune all trees up to 6’ to 10’ from the ground.
  • Remove leaf clutter and dead and overhanging branches.
  • Mow your lawn regularly.
  • Dispose of cuttings and debris promptly, according to local regulations.
  • Store firewood away from the house.
  • Be sure the irrigation system is well maintained.
  • Use care when refueling garden equipment and maintain it regularly.
  • Store and use flammable liquids properly.
  • Dispose of smoking materials carefully.
  • Become familiar with local regulations regarding vegetative clearances, disposal of debris, and fire safety requirements for equipment.
  • Follow manufacturers’ instructions when using fertilizers and pesticides.

For more information consult the following sources:

Plants For Wildfire Safety

The following list of plants are considered ideal for wildfire safe landscaping.

For more information check out this article (pdf) from the Utah State University Forestry Extention on Firewise Landscaping.

  • Amur chokecherry [prunus maackii]
  • Aspen [populus]
  • Bird Cherry [prunus padus]
  • Box Elder [Acer negudo]
  • Crabapple [malus]
  • Dogwood [cornus, many species]
  • Maple [acer, many]
  • Poplar [poplus]
  • Quercus bicolor*
  • Quercus rubra
  • Redbud [circis]*
  • Willow [salix spp.]
Ground Cover
  • Carpet bugle [ajuga repyans]
  • Clover [tirfolium repens]
  • Creeping red fescue [festuca rubra]
  • Creeping thyme [thymus praecox arcticus]*
  • Ice Plant [delosperma spp.]*
  • Rice grass
  • Sedum [many species]
  • Squaw carpet [ceonothis]*
  • Snow in Summer [cerastium]
  • Tall fescue [festuca elatior]
  • Thrift [armeria]
  • Vinca [vinca major]
  • Virginia creeper [parthenocissus quiniquifolia]
  • Wheat grass [aglaonema]
  • Wild Strawberry [fragaria chiloensis]
  • Yarrow [achillea clavennae]
  • Blue flax [linum perenne]
  • Candytuft [iberis]
  • Columbine [aguilegia caerulea]
  • Coreopsis [coreopsis auriculata]
  • Daylily [hemerocallis spp.]
  • Dusty Miller [artemisia stellerana]*
  • Gaillardia [g. Grandiflora]
  • Iris*
  • Lambs ear [stachys]*
  • Lupin [l. Argenteus]*
  • Moss pink [phlox subulata]
  • Penstemon [p.barbatus]
  • Poppy [callirhoe involucrate]
  • Primrose [primula malacoides]
  • Shasta daisy [chrysanthemum maximum]
  • Yarrow [achillea filipendulina]
  • Bush cherry [prunus virginiana]
  • Bush honeysuckle [lonicera]
  • Cotoneaster [cotoneaster dammeri]*
  • Currant [ribes]
  • Forsyhia [forsyhia x intermedia]
  • Lilac [syringa spp.]
  • Oregon Grape [mahonia aquifolium]
  • Red hot poker [kniphofia uvaria]*
  • Roses
  • Rose of Sharon [hibiscus syriacus]
  • Serviceberry [amelanchier]
  • Stage horn sumac [rhus typhina]
  • Thyme [thymus vulgaris]*
  • Utah Agave {agave utahhensis]*
  • White Alder {tenuifolia]
  • White Yarrow [achillea millefolium]

* Drought Tolerant Plants

Talk to your local nursery for more suggestions on plants that will work in your yard.

Asbestos Awareness

Asbestos Exposure in Old Homes, Manufacturing Plants and Factories

Asbestos is a natural substance that can hurt a person’s respiratory functions. Unfortunately, for many years, this substance went unregulated in our country’s factories and manufacturing plants. From the late 1800s to the 1980s, millions of works were exposed to this deadly disease, and as a result, thousands of people have developed mesothelioma and asbestosis, two deadly diseases that have killed many of their victims.

What industries are at risk?

lmost every manufacturing industry has been touched by asbestos. The problem is that these companies conspired to cover the problems with asbestos for decades, which meant that their employees (let alone the general public) didn’t know that they were at risk. In addition to asbestos plants themselves being, of course, dangerous, factories producing the following materials also had very dangerous amounts of asbestos in the air:

  • Insulation
  • Pipes
  • Cement
  • Shipbuilding materials
  • Roofing
  • Textiles
  • Automobile and railroad brakes and clutches

There are also hundreds of other types of manufacturing plants that were affected by the use of asbestos. If you worked in any kind of plant before the 1980s, it is important that you see a doctor right away. Even if your product did not contain asbestos, your factory building may have been build using material containing asbestos.

Asbestos Exposure in Older Homes

While the vast majority of asbestos’ victims are those working in factories and mines containing asbestos, homeowners themselves may have been exposed to this deadly substance. In fact, in recent years, the rates of mesothelioma and asbestosis (the two most deadly asbestos-related illnesses) have risen, in part because people are stating to renovate older homes.

In general, if asbestos-based products were used in the building of your older home, you are probably in no danger today. Asbestos is only dangerous when its fibers fill the air. If the asbestos was used in wet products which have since dried or have been covered over with paint, plaster, etc., the fibers are locked in place and cannot fill the air.

The problem is that many older homes are showing signs of wear and tear. When asbestos-based products begin to crumble, the fibers are again released into the air. In addition, homeowners withholder house often like to do DIY home renovation products. Ripping up tile, tearing down walls, and so forth could dig up old asbestos problems.

Asbestos is found in hundreds of products once used to build homes. These include tiles, furnace fixtures, fireplace materials, insulation, textured wall covers, wallpaper paste, plaster, paint, joint compound, heating ducts, pipes, and more. If you live in an older home, before doing and renovations or repairs, talk to an asbestos professional.

Exposure Problems

Exposure to asbestos in manufacturing plants and factories is such a big problem because workers were exposed to asbestos for long periods of time. Although you can develop health problems relating to asbestos after just one moment of exposure, prolonged exposure can increase your chances of developing dangerous health problems, including mesothelioma, asbestosis, and lung cancer. For additional information on asbestos cancer and other related health risks please see the resources at

The problem with diseases cause by asbestos is that they build slowly over time. The symptoms come on slowly as well, meaning that many people don’t notice them until it is too late. You may not be diagnosed with mesothelioma, for example, until 20 years (or more) after you quit your job at an insulation factory.

Therefore, it is important to see a doctor today if you’ve working in any of the above-mentioned manufacturing plants or factories or if you’ve otherwise been exposed to asbestos. Catching the problem quickly means the difference between survival and being diagnosed with little hope.

For more information on asbestos exposure and abatement please visit the Asbestos and Mesothelioma Center or Mesothelioma Prognosis.

Radon Testing and Awareness

Health Risks of Radon

Radon comes from the natural (radioactive) breakdown of uranium in soil, rock and water and gets into the air you breathe. Radon enters buildings through openings in the foundation floor or walls (sump openings, crawlspaces, floor/wall joints, cracks, etc.). Radon can become trapped in buildings, and thus, lead to elevated and harmful radon levels. Exposure to long-term, elevated radon levels can increase your risk of lung cancer. According to the U.S. Surgeon General, radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer in the U.S. and results in approximately 20,000 lung cancer deaths each year.

Radon Testing Kits

Protect your family by testing for radon in your home and help Summit County Health Department track high areas of radon in our community. Summit County Health Department is offering radon test kits for you to sample the air where you live. The cost for each kit is $10.00 and this includes lab analysis.

Radon test kits are available at the Park City Health Department office at 650 Round Valley Drive in Park City, at Quinn’s Junction.

More Information